Bath Time! Puppies love their environment, especially the great outdoors, backyard etc. They seem to be attracted to the muddy puddles or stinking objects that they cannot resist to chew or roll in. You are the parent and in charge of keeping him clean, maintaining his teeth, trimming his nails and bathing him. Here are some steps to help handle the dirt. Remember it’s best to start early, this will get the puppy use to the routine.

Step one:  Bathing
How often do I bath my puppy? Bathe your puppy if it is dirty or smelly. Every dog is different, some need bathing more often then others. But keep in mind that dogs do not need to be bathed as often as people, this could result in the loss of the dogs natural oils that moisturize the skin and can cause dry skin.

Here are 13 points to help with the bathtime:

1.) Brush the coat and remove the mats.
2.) On a non slip surface, place your dog into the bathtub, laundry tub or sink. Which ever is convenient and at the most comfortable height for you.
3.) Put cotton in his ears this will help to make a water barrier. Dabbing mineral oil or Vaseline around the eyelids will prevent irritation from soapy water.
4.) Secure a hand-held shower attachment and check the water temperature. It should be lukewarm, never wash your dog outside with the garden hose, the water is much to cold.
5.) Place the nozzle against your dogs coat this will penetrate his coat faster.
6.) Apply the canine shampoo, working it through the coat from his head to tail. If your dog has a parasite, example fleas and you are washing him, start around the head, this will stop the fleas from going into the ears and up the nostrils to hid from the treatment, and later they will come out, thus defeating the purpose of the flea bath. You may want to ask your veterinarian about other flea remedies and preventative products. These products are more effective that flea shampoos and maybe more safer for all dogs and puppies. Remember to use a squeezing motion to prevent     tangles. If your puppy has been diagnosed with a specific skin condition, avoid medicated products. Many dog     breeds are susceptible to skin problems such as seborrhea (greasy or flaky skin) or pyoderma (an infection of the skin) Special shampoos containing antibacterial or keratolytic (crust-busting) ingredients are prescribed for these conditions. Check with the vet if you notice redness, oozing spots, crusts, scabs or excessive itchiness.
7.) Rinse, holding the nozzle against your dog to lift the soap up and off the skin, until the water runs clear; removing all traces of soap will ensure a gleaming coat and prevent skin irritations. Squeeze off excess water gently with your hands.
8.) Repeat the lathering and rinsing process if your dog is really grimy.
9.) Apply conditioner, if needed and remember to rinse well.
10.) Remove the cotton from his ears.
11.) Towel dry with a squeezing motion until the coat is just damp.
12.) The smooth-coated breeds can “air dry” in a warm, draught-free area. Longer coats must be blow-dried, on a low heat setting to prevent burning. Hand-held-fryers usually suffice, but a range of professional, standing dryers are available for time-saving, hands free operations. Dry as quickly as possible so your puppy doesn’t get cold.
13.) Brush out the coat while drying to avoid matting.

Brushing
Get your puppy use to being brushed at a young age, let him/her sniff the brush before you use it. Brush your puppy in short sessions, making it a pleasant experience. Touch your dogs feet and around the muzzle often getting him/her use to having these area’s examined. After brushing praise your puppy or use treats. Regular brushing is best; don’t wait until your puppy is matted (tangled). Ask a groomer, breeder, pet store or veterinarian, about the best brush for your puppy. If you try a certain brush and don’t like how it works for his/her coat, try another brush. Brush your puppy before baths to remove hair. Full grooming services may be needed for certain dog breeds. By taking the time to brush your puppy/dogs coat this will give you a hands on to check for signs of illness-lumps and bumps, scaly patches and signs of parasitic pests- and you can even evaluate your puppy’s diet. A healthy coat with a natural shine reflects good health and nutrition. There are hundreds of breeds and several different coat types. Every breed can be categorized as having a short, medium–length or long coat, and it may be “single”- smooth, lying close to the body- or “double”-a downy undercoat protected by a coarser overcoat. There are also different textures: some coats can feel hard, soft curly or wiry. The frequency and time spent on brushing sessions will depend on your breeds coat type. Even if the coat is long doesn’t mean you can’t spend as much time on it as a medium length coat. Some coats can require a good deal of upkeep and may be prone to shedding. Texture is also a factor to determine how extensive your role in grooming will be: a soft, fuzzy coat may be more likely to mat (tangle) then a hard and wiry coat. Another consideration is the type of “trim”. While the dogs you see in competition will display a “show” trim, most dogs look equally handsome in the easier to care for “pet” trim, so named because most pet owners can manage it with style. Regardless of the coat type, there are some basic guidelines that will apply to all dogs.

Grooming: start while he is young, even when there is little to brush, always handle his feet, and look in the ears and eyes. Basically check him over. If he should struggle to get free, do not release him, this will only train him that struggling will win his freedom. Grasp the collar and give him a quick shake telling him in a stern voice “Stop It”. Immediately praise him when he calms down, for some pups you can just wait it out, and when they calm down, praise him and then release him. This will help teach him that being patient is his quickest way to freedom.

Hear, Hear!
Cleaning your dog’s ears will keep them clean and give you the opportunity to catch a problem before it gets out of hand! How do I clean his ears? First take the commercial dog cleaning solution and squish some of the liquid into each ear. Then rub the backside of the dogs ears, this will help the solution loosen up the wax. Then take a cotton ball and wipe out the wax. Never use a Q-tip, you may get too far down the ear and cause an injury, or he/her may jump causing the Q-tip to be pushed into far. If you have no cotton balls a wash cloth will work. Prior to cleaning the ears, if you notice your dog starching his ears or shaking his head and his ears have a foul smell and there are signs of irritation on the inside of his ear flaps, take him/her to see a vet as soon as possible. The three enemies of the canine’s ear canal are wax build up, dirt and hair. To dissolve excess wax and dirt, use a commercial ear cleanser and thoroughly clean the underside of the ear flap and into the upper portion of the ear canal. Take care not to push the wax down the ear canal as you clean. Some breeds require the hair to be plucked form the ear canal so the canal can remain dry and infection free. A special depilatory powder, which loosens the hair, makes the job easier. Dust it lightly into the ears; then gently pluck with your fingers or tweezers. If your dog finds this uncomfortable try using blunt-tipped ear and nose scissors. To remove any remaining powder, wax or dirt, give the ears a final swab with cleanser. You may want to keep a drying agent or medicated-type ear cleanser on hand for dogs that swim, to remove any residual moister from the ears. Dogs with upright or prick ears, or little hair growth in the ears, tend to need less frequent ear cleaning.

Eyes

Your puppy’s eyes can tell you a lot about how they feel. A puppy that is healthy will appear to have bright and alert looking eyes, if he/she has a dull expression this could be an early warning of ill health. If the eyes seem to be sensitive and are producing excess discharge or look redder than usual, take him to a vet. During your daily cuddle time with your puppy is an excellent time to remove the normal daily discharge produced by the eyes. This is done by gently wiping with a moist, soft cloth, cotton ball or baby wipe. Clear away any dry matter in the hair at the inner corners of the eyes with a small plastic comb. It is also important to keep the eye area clear of hair, in certain breeds that are prone to tearing and staining. Tearing stains are more visible in white coats, they actually rust the coat. Keeping the hair trimmed around the inside corner of the eyes will help reduce this effect. To deal with the stains that are already there, you can use a tooth brush with a mild tearless shampoo for canines during his next bath, or use one of the commercial tear stain-removal products available at pet-supply stores. Breeds with protruding eyes are not only predisposed to excessive tearing, they are at greater risk of injury. If the hair is trimmed away from the eyes, this will make it easier for you to monitor the eyes.

Dental
Puppies have two sets of teeth: deciduous (baby) teeth and adult teeth. Puppies loose there baby teeth around 3 to 6 months of age. During this time he will go through periods of increased chewing and discomfort. Get him lots of chew toys that he can fit into his mouth easily. Rope bones can be wet down, wrung out and frozen as a special treat, also ice cubes can help numb the pain and is a favorite for many pups. Once this stage passes most of the chewing will stop naturally. Caring for your puppy’s teeth from the start may help make the adult teeth last for the rest of his/her life.
Maintaining good canine oral hygiene may prevent fewer professional cleanings for your dog and less cost to you, also this gives you the opportunity to catch a problem in the making. Inflamed gums, excessive salivation and a foul odour are usually signs of a problem a trip to the veterinarian is in order. Dental programs should be started as early as possible. Brushing twice to three times per week, will help keep tartar buildup at bay. Start by handling your puppy’s mouth; lift the lips and stroke the gums with your fingers, you may want to approach her from behind, with your puppy on your lap or between your knees. If she nibbles on your fingers, try making a high-pitched squeal to startle her and stop the behaviour. This will aid her to learn not to bite. Take your doggie toothbrush and toothpaste (Please note that toothpaste for people will upset a dogs stomach) and start with short, gentle sessions, increasing the time spent on each cleaning as the puppy gets use to the routine. How to brush; with a pea-sized amount of toothpaste on the toothbrush, slip the toothbrush under your puppy’s lip on one side. With a stroking action brush both the upper and lower teeth on that side. You don’t need to brush the tongue or the inner side of the teeth, but don’t forget the front teeth. There are other steps to you can take in the battle against tartar. If you feed your dog canned food, be sure to mix some kibble with it. Crunchy biscuits with help canine teeth become strong. Some vets may suggest chew toys that are softer then there dogs teeth, suggesting there may be a link between hard nylon chew toys and bones and the development of dead teeth. The idea is to provide exercise for the gums in combination with some abrasive action. If you notice that tartar (brownish-coloured film) has built up on the teeth, you should scrape it away using either your thumbnail or dental scaler. While regular brushing will reduce the number of times your dog will need professional cleanings, it’s still wise to consider them part of your dogs healthcare regime.

Trimming the nails

Dogs nails will wear down naturally on hard surfaces like cement but still require some personal attention. Check the nails weekly; it’s better to trim often than to deal with overgrown nails. Usually trimming the dogs nails twice per month is sufficient. Long nails can cause pain and may even spay and twist your dog’s feet. Make it a habit to touch and play with your pups paws so he/she becomes use to having them handled. Some dogs are very sensitive to their feet being touched; which leads to the dog having to be sedated and muzzled to trim his/her nails. Handling the puppy’s feet early in life may help prevent a fear from developing. Offer treats after the nail trimming to make it a pleasant experience. Get your puppy use to the nail clippers by introducing them a few times prior to cutting the nails, this will allow him to get use to the feel and sounds of the nail clippers prior to you using them. Start nail trimming while your puppy is young, the nails are softer at this age and trim easier.

Let your veterinarian, groomer or breeder show you the proper technique. Basically you will be shortening the nail, in small increments, stopping at the beginning of quick. This demarcation is easily seen on white nails; dark nails will have a faint line and dull colour where the quick begins. If you cut into the quick, you will see blood-but don’t worry; you haven’t done any major damage. Styptic power will quickly “cauterize” the nick, if you don’t have any on hand, apply pressure, you can use cornstarch or flour. Nails above the paw are referred to as dewclaws, some breeds have these removed. These nails must be trimmed regularly, if left unchecked the nail can grow into the dog’s leg and cause needless suffering.The plier-type nail trimmer with cutting guard is ideal for beginners; it allows you to cut a little of the nail at a time. If your dog is hairy, you will want to trim the hair away from around the center pad of his paw, otherwise, it will become matted and trap stones and debris. Here are some diagrams of the dogs blood supply to the nails.